While most of Portugal’s tasting menus will serve you a variety of seafood bites, refreshing vegetables, and a bit of protein to round things out, Sult is an upscale Italian restaurant that’s unafraid to go heavy on the carbs and cheese. It’s the second of its name, with the first being a Michelin bib gourmand anointed eatery in Rio de Janeiro.
Both are restaurants doing traditional Italian cooking with sprinkles of their regional DNA, but unlike its packed sister-restaurant, this Cascais osteria feels like a newborn baby, still looking to make its mark in the world, but full of raw potential: After all, it’s being reared by one of the best chefs in town.
Nelson Soares is not a flashy restaurateur, and had he not been wearing his apron I may not have chatted him up, but as soon as we got to talking I realized that this is one of the chillest, most humble chefs I’ve ever met; a calm demeanor that’s balanced by the bearish belly-laugh I often associate with gracious Brazilians: His yuca flour grissini and cow tongue cappelletti simply confirmed that he’s also a master in the kitchen.
O jornalismo que a Mensagem de Lisboa faz une comunidades,
conta histórias que ninguém conta e muda vidas.
Dantes pagava-se com publicidade,
mas isso agora é terreno das grandes plataformas.
Se gosta do que fazemos e acha que é importante,
se quer fazer parte desta comunidade cada vez maior,
apoie-nos com a sua contribuição: